The Tea Cup MYTH: 

People will call and ask for a Tea Cup Chihuahua...."I want a TEA CUP CHIHUAHUA please"

I like to POLITELY explain when people call requesting a 'Tea Cup Chihuahua' that there is no such classification!

There are only two varieties ~~ short coat and long coat ~~ 



~~~EVERY Chihuahuas is classified as a Toy Breed ONLY~~~

Please read the AKC Standards for Chihuahua!

If you are working with anyone who tells you they have Tea Cup Chihuahuas...

...they are ignorant, uneducated and uniformed. 

A Tiny Chihuahua is JUST that....a TINY Chihuahua. 

There is no separate classification as TEA CUP CHIHUAHUA.

Please don't call me asking for a Tea Cup Chihuahua...that is a term used by people who care more about breeding for a TINY puppy than they do about overall health. "Tea Cups" are small pups, that's it. Plain and simple! And A TINY Chihuahua should NOT be a breeder's target size. Due to the increased health issues, potential for injury and limited or compromised vet care due to the frail's not a wise objective. No one can guarantee you the adult size of your Chihuahua puppy, until of course your puppy IS an adult, but a growth/weight chart can be used to estimate a projected adult weight. However, healthy Chihuahuas can range anywhere from 2 lbs to 20 lbs. Weight is not the only factor of a healthy Chihuahua. Many other factors will affect your puppy's health including: type of food, exercise, general environmental conditions and genetics. If you ever have any questions at all about care or anything on my website...please feel absolutely free to email, text or call!  Your success as a pet parent will take plenty of love, time, money, commitment, consistency and knowledge! Please feel confident that you possess these qualities before asking about any of my puppies! Health and happiness of your puppy falls squarely on your shoulders as a responsible pet owner, though I consider it my pleasure to help you every step of the way!


HYPOGLYCEMIA  (or low blood sugar) CAN BE DEADLY if left untreated. Tiny dogs are notoriously vulnerable to the condition (especially when young puppies go to their new homes) because they do not have an adequate supply of internal fat to maintain a constant **blood sugar level. Hypoglycemic episodes can happen at any time, to any pup, but they tend to happen most frequently in times of stress, illness, infection, or the most common, simply going too long without eating. Sometimes new owners may take for granted that a puppy has eaten, or has eaten enough, or they may forget to monitor a pup's food intake. It is IMPERATIVE that puppies eat regularly and that food is offered food at least 4-5 times a day, until a pattern and routine is established. A puppy does not need to eat a LOT at each feeding, but it NEEDS to eat; depending on the size of the puppy, a few teaspoons should satisfy a puppy, but he/she MUST eat.  Make sure your new puppy has food available at all times, or is offered food several times (at least 4-5 times) throughout the day for the first few weeks. Always keep Karo syrup or NutraCal on hand in case of an emergency. Plain white sugar dissolved in warm tap water (highly concentrated) will work as well to quickly boost the low blood sugar. Honey may also work, but you're after the high calorie and sugar content for immediate care.

Some signs to look for if you think you may be witnessing a hypoglycemic episode, or "sugar crash", are vomiting, lethargy, weakness and unresponsiveness. One of the first signs that your pup may be hungry and heading towards a sugar crash may be presence of white and/or yellow foamy vomit (commonly referred to as 'hunger pukes'). This will usually occur in small quantities and may happen just once or twice or become more frequent. If this happens,  you should immediately attempt to feed the puppy, as the puppy is HUNGRY and instinctively trying to regurgitate a previous meal for sustenance. For small puppies, this is your FIRST warning to take action. You must either get food into the puppy VERY soon and/or supply the puppy with a calorie rich substitute, including NutraCal, STAT, DYNE or any other product advertised as a high calorie nutritional supplement. Additional signs your puppy may be experiencing a hypoglycemic episode may include staggering, lazy eyes (meaning more of the whites of the eyes are visible and the eyes are slow to follow or focus and may include squinting or partially opened eyes) unsteadiness, weakness, bobbing head, lethargy, awkward whining. If left untreated, this condition will lead to unresponsiveness and seizures and DEATH. THIS IS AN EMERGENCY AND YOU MUST ACT QUICKLY! Cover a fingertip in Karo syrup or NutraCal and get it into the dog's mouth, rubbing into gums. You may need to pry the mouth open if he will not lap it up on his own (this is very common). Once he starts to respond, he should start to lap some water on his own and come around fairly quickly, depending how low the sugar/glucose level was. It may take several hours for the puppy to return to normal, but he/she should rebound to responsive relatively quickly. Continue to administer small amounts of Karo, sugar water, etc. until the puppy seems to be alert and aware and has returned to a normal activity level. It may be necessary to continue administering small amounts of sugar product until the sugar level stabilizes in the puppy. (**A glucose monitor can be used to evaluate levels if you have access to one.) When the pup comes around and is receptive to your actions, make sure the pup starts eating adequately!   If the pup continues to refuse food or won't eat on his or her own and is remaining lethargic and weak for several hours...YOU MUST SEEK VETERINARY CARE. This is YOUR responsibility and is of NO fault of the breeder. If your puppy winds up being admitted to a veterinary hospital due to this issue, you must be aware that it is incredibly common for secondary infections and issues to develop as a result of the sugar crash, due to the severe reduction and retardation of metabolic activities. Your pup may experience abnormal blood cell counts, increased viral and bacterial loads and even possible respiratory infections and liver issues. BE AWARE these are INCREDIBLY common side effects resulting from a sugar crash. They did not CAUSE the sugar crash, but will and can be the direct results from one.

Once the pup has rebounded, you can offer plain yogurt, egg yolks, meat, baby foods, raw or boiled chicken or beef, bits of raw liver...anything to stimulate his an appetite. I find most puppies, after having a severe sugar crash, are highly motivated by raw chicken, beef, liver...something that triggers the back of the brain (instinctively) to eat as it would in nature. Do not just feed sizable quantiles of all meat though, this will cause diarrhea and soft poops. The pup will also need fiber. I find using a mallet of some time to break up small pieces of raw chicken cartilage and bones work GREAT! Not sure what or how to do it, CALL ME! 

**Normal blood glucose levels in healthy dogs are 80-120 milligrams per decilitre (mg/dl).  

Some additional Chihuahua factoids!

The Puppy Uglies - when young Chihuahua puppies (mainly long coated varieties) start to experience fur loss all over the body. This process usually begins around 6 months old and can last for several months and into a year. Fur loss can range from mild to severe...sometimes almost to the point of baldness. Do not panic. This is incredibly natural and common, and necessary as the puppy fuzz falls out and the adult coat fills in underneath. Before long, you'll see a stellar new coat, sometimes even boasting new color patterns and variations.


Floppy Ears - Though not painful at all to the puppy, starting around 8 to 12 weeks of age, the new owner may wonder why his once erect eared fuzz ball is now looking patchy and flop eared. Some pups will have sparse or bald patches, one or both ears may flop or curl. The pup is going through a normal growing phase, he is shedding his puppy fur and will grow new hair quickly. His adult teeth are starting to come in and for some reason that seems to take the spirit out of their ears for awhile. All pups are different and this may last weeks to months but soon enough they will have a full coat and erect ears again. The only medical concern would be a rash on balding skin.


A Molera (or Fontanel), or a soft spot, is a very common trait in Chihuahuas due to their dome "apple shaped" head. The molera actually used to be looked at as an indicator that a Chihuahua was, in fact, purebred. The presence of a Molera is a perfectly normal and can vary in presence and size and how long it takes to fully close. Some never close fully, and generally, they do not pose any health risks or concerns when they aren't sizable. 


Umbilical Hernia - is a fairly common occurrence in small breed dogs. It is simpy where the umbilical cord was attached to the puppy in utero, supplying blood and nutrients during the pregnancy.  Sometimes, this area remains slightly pronounced after the cord is cut, leaving a small bump, ie an outie belly button. Do NOT let a breeder or vet scare you into thinking this is somehow a detriment to the pup's existence. It is a purely a cosmetic affliction and poses no serious or other type of danger to the pup. An umbilical hernia can easily be corrected during a spay or neuter procedure with very litter effort and little discomfort to the dog or puppy.  


A reverse sneeze is fairly common in toy breeds, it is thought to be caused by an elongated soft palate that becomes temporarily misaligned. Though the short bouts of sneezing, snorting, honking sounds can seem a little scary, it is nothing to be concerned about and will last only a short time and stop on it's own. You can help stop the episode by getting the dog to breath through his mouth or swallowing. Usually this is brought on by getting overly excited or drinking too fast. This is not to be confused with another condition called collapsed trachea.


Keep honey or Karo syrup on hand at all times, most likely you will never have to use it, but in the event of a hypoglycemic emergency it is a must have!


Food and water should be available at all times (except during the night during time's of sleep). Gradually work out a feeding schedule as the puppy grows.


If you are facing a pup with a decreased appetite, help to stimulate an appetite by dipping a fingertip in honey, Karo syrup, or NutriCal gel and rub on the pup's gums. You may try meat baby food or fresh, raw chicken or beef too.


If a pup has diarrhea - provide clear liquids, fresh water, Pedialyte. Plain yogurt containing acidophilus will help to add good bacteria into the GI tract. Use a bland diet, rice with boiled chicken bits briefly. You should plan to do a stool sample at the vet's to rule out parasites. 


All puppies need to be contained when not being supervised. A crate or playpen is a safe place. Crates work well for helping with potty training also, as the puppy will not want to go to the bathroom where he sleeps. Just remember he can't hold it very long and must be taken out to relieve himself often. The crate should not be used as punishment, most dogs consider that their den and feel safe there. There must be adequate room for food and water during the first few months.


Chihuahuas love children. Children must be taught to handle them with care, being dropped or stepped on could cause injuries. With supervision and gentle care, a chihuahua will do wonderful with children. With young children a 6 pound dog would be a better choice than a tiny one.